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DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE 

BUREAU OF FISHERIES 



Economic Circular No. 34 Issued March 20, 1918 

SKATES AND RAYS/ 

Interesting Fishes of Great Food Value, with 29 Recipes for 
Cooking Them. 

The redoubtable Capt. John Smith, while exploring Chesapeake 
Bay during the summer of 1608, after trying vainly to catch fish in 
a frying pan, resorted more successfully to the sword, an instrument 
in the use of which he was doubtless more expert. Included in his 






catch was a sting ray which he found to be no mean antagonist, for 
it drove its tail spine into his wrist, inflicting a w^ound an inch and 
a half deep, and of such severity and alarming consequences that 
the captain selected his burial place, and his companions busied 
themselves in digging his grave. Fortunately the use of " a precious 
oyle " so alleviated the pain that the grave was not required and the 
sturdy soldier was able to eat his foe for supjDer. 

In the more than three centuries since this adventure, which so 
nearly cut s hort the career of one of the most interesting characters 

" By H. F. Moore, Deputy Commissioner, Bureau of Fisheries. 



in American history, not much progress has been made in utihzmg 
the abundant food supply offered by the skates and rays. A few of 
these fish are eaten in some parts of the country, but it is safe to say 
that on the day in which Capt. Smith and his companions ate his late 
enemy the per capita consumption of rays by the white population 
of the United States probably reached its maximum. 

The sting ray, or stingaree, as it is often called, is one of the most 
common of a group of fishes known as skates and rays. They are 
all characterized by flat bodies adapted to a bottom-dwelling habit, 
and their outlines as viewed from above are generally either quadran- 
gular or racquet shaped, with comparatively slender tails, in the 
sting rays and others reduced to mere whiplike appendages. The 
weapon which figures in the story of Capt. Smith, is a long serrated 
spine, occasionally two or three, on the basal half of the tail, and 
while there is no poison gland connected with it, it makes a very 
painful wound almost certain to be infected, and the fish capable of 
inflicting it are treated by the fishermen with great respect. 

The sting rays, of which there are a number of species on the coasts 
of the United States, reach a large size, being sometimes 6 or 7 feet 
in breadth, with a total length of 10 or 12 feet, but the giant of its 
kind is the so-called devilfish, which reaches, and by some authori- 
ties is said to considerably exceed, 20 feet in breadth. The great 
size and enormous strength of this fish have given rise to extraor- 
dinary myths concerning it, but the facts are sufficiently impres- 
sive without exaggeration. It is sometimes taken for sport with 
the harpoon, and when securely struck a large specimen will tow a 
heavy launch for miles before becoming exhausted. 

Another interesting group of rays comprises the torpedoes or 
"cramp fishes," which are provided with electric organs capable of 
administering a shock strong enough to Icnock a man down, a fact 
well known to the fishermen, who deal with living specimens with 
due caution. 

A large number of the skates and rays, however, are more ordinary 
in character, possessing neither enormous size and strength nor 
offensive weapons. They all have the same general habits, living 
on the bottom, though often appearing at the surface, and sometimes 
hurling themselves into the air to fall back with a resounding noise. 
They feed on crabs, mollusca, and other bottom-dwelling organisms, 
and some species, particularly the sting rays, are so destructive to 
oysters that in certain localities it is necessary to protect the planted, 
beds with stockades of closely set piling or wire netting. 

Russell J. Coles, whose exploits in catching sharks and devilfish] 
are well known, particularly through a recent interesting magazine] 
article by Col. Roosevelt, and who has probably tested the edible I 



D. Of Dv 
APR 20 1918 



the clfCS tdes "' "°*" ^^^^^^-S *h« characteristics of 

fish 'T^ tZ'i f"^ "''' ^'"'^'^y ^^"S'^* ^"d cooked as any other 
hllfi\ T. T"'' '^^'"'nding one somewhat of very fine fat 

bluefish. It may be preserved for months in excellent condi^L i! 
packed m dry salt. After one week remove it from the brine which 
forms, stack it so as to drain thoroughly, and repack in dr^ silt as 

L aUeas^thr^'T ''' "]* '^'^ *"■ ^^°'^-^' ^^"^ ^' ^^ ^^ ho- 
rn at least three changes of water, when it is nearly restored to its 

ongmal fresh flavor. Before salting or using this fish fresh an 

Mredtr' f' "'"' ^T"*? *^^ ™^^^" •'^ "- fi^h and the 'sldr. 
stripped off in two pieces, back and belly, which have a value for 

mav h?;^ J. ^ "T;""'" ^"'^ '"^^' "^y^ '^^^^ ^^il^"- q"^lities and 
may be treated in the same way. 

The common sting rays, of moderate size, are good fresh, but the 
larger ones are improved by salting. The barn-door skate furnishes 
a large amount of good, wholesome, and palatable flesh. It mav be 
eaten either fresh or salted, although in the first state it is not quite 
as good as the species previously described. The summer skate is 
Similar. 

The briar ray or little skate, is excellent fresh, when it has some- 
what the flavor of shrimp, but it is small and furnishes much less 
meat than the other species. It is readily taken in large numbers 
however, particularly at a season when other fish are scarce, and 
should make an important addition to the food supply. 

RECIPES. 

Skates should be skinned or thoroughly scraped, according to the 
character of the skin, before being cooked. Some of the following 
recipes call for considerable quantities of butter and other fats Use 
butter substitutes and vegetable fats whenever possible, and during 
the period of food scarcity, give preference to the simpler recipes. 
^ 1. Fried skate.~Cut the skate into square pieces; let them lie for an hour 
in cold water to which have been added a little vinegar, a sprig of parslev, and 
a few peppercorns. Drain, wipe dry, and dredge with flour. Dip in eg^ and 
bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat until brown. 

2 Boiled skate with caper sauce.-Gook the fish in suflicient salted and 
acidulated water to cover, adding sliced onion, 2 bay leaves, and a bunch of 
parsley to the water, with salt and pepper to season. Drain, place on a hot 
dish, serve with caper sauce, and garnish with parsley and sliced tomato 

3. Bmled skate ,mth black Mitter.-Boil 2 pounds of skate until tender in 
salted water with onion, thyme, parsley, bay leaves, and pepper to season 
Drain the fish and pour over one-half cupful of melted butter browned to 
hazelnut color, to which 1 teaspoonful of vinegar has been added 



4. Boiled skate toith white sauce. — Boil 2 pounds of skate in salted water with 
a little lemon juice and a bunch of parsley. In a double boiler cook together 2 
tablespoonfuls of butter and 2 of flour, and add salt, pepper, and grated nut- 
meg to season. Add 2 cupfuls of boiling water ; bring to a boil, strain, add 2 
tablespoonfuls of butter and the juice of a lemon. Pour over the fish and serve. 

5. Broiled skate a la Boston. — Broil one side of the skate steaks until heated 
through, then turn, and spread the other side with a paste of butter, flour, 
chopped onion, and tomato pulp. Cook until brown and serve with the crust 
side up. 

6. Boiled skate. — Cut 4 pounds of skate into convenient pieces for serving. 
Put into a kettle an onion and a carrot sliced, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of 
thyme, 2 bay leaves, a teaspoonful of salt, peppercorns, and one-third cupful of 
vinegar. Put the fish on this, add cold water to cover, and boil slowly for 45 
minutes. Drain and serve with any preferred sauce. 

7. Skate a la Beaufort. — Put 2 pounds of prepared and cleaned skate into a 
fish kettle with 1^ pints of white stock and 1 pint of water, adding salt, pepper, 
and sweet herbs to season, and one-half cupful of finely cut celery, onions, and 
parsley. Simmer for an hour, drain, remove skin, and put on a serving dish. 
Strnin the liquid, thicken with 2 tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour cooked 
together, add 1 teaspoonful of beef extract, salt and cayenne pepper to season ; 
take from fire, add the yolks of 3 eggs, beaten witli the juice of a lemon and 2 
tablespoonfuls of butter, pour over fish and serve. 

8. Stewed skate. — Put in a fish kettle on the stove 1 tablespoonful of fresh 
butter. When melted, add one-half an onion, cut fine; let brown, then add 1 
tablespoonful of flour, lightly browned, and enough hot water to cook the fish. 
To this liquor add some cut-up celery, some finely chopped parsley, 2 cloves, 1 
bay leaf, a pinch each of mace, cayenne pepper, black pepper, and ginger, and 

I tablespoonful of fresh butter. When this mixture begins to boil, add about 

II pounds of skate which has been cut into cubes and rubbed with salt. Cook 
until the fish is well done. Remove the cubes of fish to a platter, and add to 
the liquor 1 cup of sweet milk, stirring constantly ; boil for 1 minute, then 
pour in the beaten yolks of 2 eggs, stirring all the time. Arrange the cubes 
of skate on the platter with small slices of lemon, and pour the liquor over. 

9. Steamed skate. — Clean and wash thoroughly 3 or 4 pounds of skate, put 
on a plate, cover with a cloth, put in a steamer, and steam for two hours. 
Place on serving dish, sprinkle bits of butter on the top, salt and pepper, and 
place in oven for 2 or 3 minutes. Pour over an egg sauce and serve. 

10. Baked skate. — Skin the fish and cut into suitable pieces for serving. 
Put into a buttered saucepan with the juice of half a lemon and a bunch of 
sweet herbs. -Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour and pour into 
it 2 cupfuls of milk. When nearly tender, drain, brown in oven, thicken H\e 
sauce with butter and flour cooked together, pour around the fish and serve. 

11. Baked skate. — Soak 6 pounds of skate in salt water for 1 hour. Wipe 
dry and bake for an hour in a moderately hot oven, basting with melted butter 
and hot water. Add a little boiling water to the gravy, a tablespoonful of 
walnut catsup, a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper to 
season, and the juice of 1 lemon. Thicken with browned flour rubbed smooth 
with a little cold water. 

12. Baked skate toith tomato sauce. — Cook together for 20 minutes 2 cupfuls 
of tomatoes, 1 cupful of water, a slice of onion, 3 cloves, and 1 teaspoonful of 
sugar. Blend together 3 tablespoonfuls each of melted butter and flour, stir 
into the tomato sauce, and cook until thick. Strain and pour half of the sauce 



5 

around 2 pounds of skate placed in a buttered tin. Bake for 35 minutes, bast- 
ing often with the sauce. Transfer to a hot platter and pour the remaining 
sauce around it. 

13. Baked skate with egg sat^ce.— Take 3 or 4 pounds of skate, lay it in a 
dish and pour over it 1 cup of fish broth to which is added 1 tablespoonful of 
vinegar. In half an hour drain, rub with salt and pepper, and put into a baking 
pan. Add enough milk to cover the bottom of the pan one-half inch deep. 
Bake for an hour, basting frequently with the milk. 

For the sauce, melt 1 tablespoonful of butter, add 2 of flour, and cook thor- 
oughly. Add 2 cupfuls of boiling water and cook until thick, stirring con- 
stantly. Add 2 chopped hard-boiled eggs, season to taste, pour over fish, and 

serve 

14.' Skate a la Creole.— Lay 3 or 4 pounds of skate for an hour in oil and 

vinegar adding finely chopped onion and minced parsley to the marmade 

Drain and put the fish into a baking dish. Turn over it a sauce, made of 1 

cupful of strained tomatoes, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 heaping teaspoonful 

, of flour, and salt, paprika, and grated onion to season. Cover closely and bake 

! until tender. Sprinkle with grated cheese and cook for 5 minutes longer. 

Transfer the fish carefully to a hot platter and pour the sauce over it. 

. 15 Skate a la N antucket. -Cle^iu the skate and rub well with salt and 

\ Depper Boil in salted water to which has been added a small bunch of pnT.ley, 

a celerv root, 2 sliced onions, a chopped carrot, and a little mace. When 

' done take up, sprinkle with cracker crumbs, dot with butter, and brown in the 

' ovem Strain the liquid, thicken with butter and flour cooked together, pour 

! "^TI^^I^m:^^^^ and bone skate steaks, and cut into fillets^ 

< Jk in "2 helping tablespoonful s of flour. Add 3 cups of milk -d -P 

i well seasoned. Cover with buttered paper, and set into a hot oven until 

' TnLr Take the pan out, cover the fish with a layer of sweet Spanish peppers 

I Z^:l\^TeTJs.uce, sprinkle with crumbs and grated cheese, dot with 

^T^^vz:.::^ - - - r 

' J,!; rut a flTarter of a pound of fat salt pork into flice ami try cri.p. Skim 
^TL mce and f4 tl Xed onion, brown in the fat. Strain the fat into a 
out the aice auu xij twv^ , _.„ „-,-, ^.v^ ^^.^^■c. ooU nnH npimp'r to 



cut a ouarter of a pound of fat salt pork into dice ami try crisp. 
n„f the dice and fry two sliced onions brown in the fat. Strain the fal 
? f J^r cover with sliced raw potatoes, add the skate, salt and pepper to 
deep kettle ^°^^f' ^;™ f^f^^t,, „, ^sb stock to cover. Simmer slowly until 
TThTs .Zsfdone :dr2 tablespoontuls of butter, a do.en split Boston 
e^Lkel; 4 cup?:L of boiling milk, and the onion and pork dice. Reheat and 

"^1^' «.„«e a la crime.-Boi\ 3 pounds of skate slowly in salted and acidulated 

t^^Ztln7Z In a double boiler melt 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and 
,,-a ter for haw an hou^. ^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^ ^^^^ ^^ ^.^^^ ^^^^, ^ , 

cook m It 2^^^P "fJ7^^^^^ ,ti,ri„g constantly. Season with pepper and salt, 
fish broth; ^«'*;' *f^*^^*„'^^ ,' ^p„t the fish upon a serving dish and pour 
Sr: uce"'"t Putt bCdVr-of mashed potatoes around the fish, rub with 

fr and festen with a wooden toothpick. Dip once more into the butter 
tllet, and ^f ««° "'"' ^^^ f„r 20 minutes in a moderate oven. Cut 



H^l^utes of ; 

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placing on the serving dish. Sprinkle the grated yollis over the fish and serve 
with cream sauce. 

20. Skate a la Normandy. — Put 3 pounds of fillets of skate into a buttered 
saucepan with salt and pepper to season, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 chopped 
onion, and one-half cupful of fish stock. Cover and cook for 15 minutes, then 
take up the fish and drain carefully. Cook together without browning, 2 table- 
spoonfuls each of butter and fiour, add the liquid drained from the pan and 
enough mussel or oyster liquor to make 3 cupfuls of sauce. Cook until thick, 
stirring constantly, skim, take from the fire, and add the yolks of 4 eggs well 
beaten, 2 tablespoonful s of butter in small bits, the juice of half a lemon and a 
dozen mussels or oysters cut fine. Pour the sauce over the skate and serve. 

21. Skate ivith fine herbs. — Butter a baking dish and put into it pieces of 
prepared skate. Sprinkle with chopped mushrooms, onions, and parsley, season 
with salt and pepper, add 1 wineglassful of sherry and half a cupful of stock. 
Sprinkle with crumbs and bake. Take up the fish carefully and add to the 
liquid enough brown stock to make the required quantity of sauce. Thicken 
with butter and flour cooked together, add 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 tea- 
spoonful of anchovy essence, and the juice of half a lemon. Pour around the 
fish and serve. 

22. Skate a la Italienne. — Put 2 pounds of prepared fish into a buttered sauce- 
pan with a bean of garlic, 1 bay leaf, 2 sprigs of thyme, 1 tablespoonful of 
butter, 3 cloves, and salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with flour, cover the fish 
with milk and simmer gently until done; then drain. Put into a serving dish, 
sprinkle with grated cheese, and garnish with boiled button onions, and triangles 
of fried bread. Strain the sauce over it and serve. 

23. Timbale of skate. — Chop one-half pound of raw skate and press it through 
a sieve. Mix 1 cupful of bread crumbs to a smooth paste with one-half cupful 
of milk, and cook until it thickens. Take from the fire, add the fish pulp and 
the stiffly beaten whites of 4 eggs. Fill buttered timbale molds with the 
mixture and cook in a pan of hot water in a moderate oven for 20 minutes. 
Serve with cream or tomato sauce. 

24. Skate a la Palm Beach. — Butter a baking dish and lay upon it 4 or 5 
pounds of skate. Open a can of sweet Spanish peppers, drain, and cover the 
skate with them. Sprinkle with chopped onion, minced parsley, chopped mush- 
rooms, crumbs, and dots of butter. Add 1 cupful of stock and a wineglass full 
of white wine. Bake for 20 minutes, basting frequently, take up carefully, and 
serve with fried sweet potatoes. 

25. Skate salad. — Put 1 pound of cold, boiled skate, which has been boned, 
skinned, and cut into fillets, into a basin with a marinade of oil and lemon 
juice, seasoned with pepper, salt, minced parsley, and bay leaves. Allow to 
stand an hour, drain thoroughly and chop. Boil 3 or 4 medium red beets for 
half an hour, then drain and bake an hour in a hot oven. Peel, slice thin, and 
cool thoroughly. JNIix with the skate, add a small bunch of raddishes sliced very 
thin, and half a dozen sliced pickles. Surround with lettuce leaves and pour 
over a French dressing. 

26. Carhonade of skate. — Cut 2 pounds of skate into large cubes. Dip into 
melted butter, seasoned with salt, pepper, and onion juice, then into beaten 
egg, then into bread crumbs. Put into a buttered baking dish, spread ^ith egg 
and butter, and cook in a hot oven for 15 minutes. Serve with Hollandaise 
sauce. 

27. Molded skate ivith green peas. — Chop 1 pound of raw skate very fine. Add 
to it the yolk of 1 egg well beaten, and salt, red and white pepper to se^eon.^j 
Add 1 teaspoonful of cornstarch rubbed smooth with two-thirds of a ;^tvil oi , 



milk and one-third of a cupful of cream whipped solid. Fill buttered indi- 
vidual molds, put into a pan of hot water, and bake in a slow oven for 20 
minutes. Turn out on a platter and surround with cooked peas, reheated in 
cream sauce. 

28. Skate fritters.— Rub into one-half pound of flour 2 tablespoonfuls of 
butter, add a pinch of salt, the beaten yolk of 1 egg, and enough cold water to 
make a very stiff paste. Roll the paste very thin and cut into pieces large 
enough to wrap small fillets of skate, which have been seasoned with pepper 
and salt and lem6n,^Duice. Fry brown in deep fat and serve with tomato or 
tartr,-!- sauce. 

k SJ^ate i)ie.— Chop fine 2 carrots and 2 onions. 2 sprigs of parsley, a stalk 
of celery," ^^nd a bit of bay leaf. Fry in butter, seasoning with salt and pepper 
and powdeted mace. Add 2 cupfuls of boiled milk and cook slowly for 25 
minutes. Press through a sieve, add 2 cupfuls of sweet milk, and reheat. Add 
the fillets of 2 pounds of skate, the mussels taken from 2 quarts of mussel-in- 
shell parboiled in their liquor and drained, and one-half pound of cleaned fresl 
mushrooms. Cook for 2 minutes. Thicken with the yolks of 2 eggs beaten 
with 1 tablespoonful of butter and 2 of cream. Fill a baking dish lined with 
pastry, cover with crust, and bake. 



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WASHINGTON : GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1918 



LIBRARY OF CONGREi,.., 




Ill 'm 



014 484 144 A f 



